Troon Vineyards, located in the Applegate Valley AVA, held a vertical Port tasting this past weekend. They welcomed back the 2005 and 2006 Reserve Insomnia Ports from the library and showcased the newest released 2007. The 2007 vintage is made in the Ruby style, whereas the 2006 and 2005 are Reserve style.
The 2007 Insomnia Port is made from 100% Tempranillo, the traditional Portugese varietal. The 2007 is bright ruby red in color. The mouthfeel is light in consistency with flavors of raspberry and creamy caramel. The 2007 Port has an alcohol content of 18%. This Port was tasting fabulous now, but has a cellar life of 20 years. The retail price was $23.
The 2006 Reserve Insomnia Port, also made from 100% Tempranillo, is darker in color than the 2007 and quite a bit warmer on the nose due to the 20% alcohol content. It smells of plums and vanilla. It is rich in the mouth and sweet, but not syrupy. According to Troon, 2006 was one of their best port vintages to date. It can be cellared for 25 years. The retail price is $29.
Finally, the 2005, made with Tempranillo and Dolcetto varietals, has a very distincted musty smell on the nose. The Port is 20% alcohol and was is not currently available for sale.
The naming of the Troon "Insomnia Ports" has a great story behind it. The winemaker, Herb Quady, a second generation portmaker, recognizes that there is such a short window of opportunity for perfect fortification that he stays up for days waiting for the correct moment.
In his words, "Portmaking is a subtle sub-discipline of winemaking. Those who take it seriously, take it very seriously. My father takes it seriously. In 1975, the year of my birth, he took portmaking so seriously he decided to quit his job, and begin a lifelong commitment to sweet, fortified wines. Because of my father, I also take portmaking seriously, not necessarily because of any deep profound commitment, but, more of a fear that if I make my Port too dry, too extracted, too fruity, or too sweet, I’ll never stop hearing about it. These things cross my mind at 11:00 p.m. when I debate whether or not to just add the fortifying spirit, and go home. I say to myself, “maybe people might like a sweeter style…” But then, as soon as it began, the justification is crushed by the haunting image of paternal disapproval. And so, the patient vigil winds on. I always think that the next sample will show the big brix drop, the drop I would surely miss were I to head home, change out of my wet clothes and take a nap. Ironically, were I to take the chance, I could probably head home right now, eat some meatloaf, take a shower, and grab a quick cat nap. But, I just can’t leave, because it just might be that next sample… I’ve tried different things with the Port fermentations so that I wouldn’t have to fortify at 3 am. I’ve tried inoculating in the morning – still, 3 a.m. I’ve tried it in the evening, that year it was 2 a.m. In 2006 I was smart enough to inoculate on a Friday. The fermentations are never fast enough to be fortified on a weekend!"
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